How to permanently delete a Facebook account

 

It would seem that following the ‘deactivate account’ link in Facebook does not actually delete your account or remove your profile. Your account just goes into a limbo state and is automatically reactivated if you log in again.

If you want to permanently delete your Facebook account, follow this link to http://www.facebook.com/help/contact.php?show_form=delete_account

After submitting the form you should receive a confirmation email like this:

Subject: Account Scheduled for Deletion

Hi Victor,

We have received a request to permanently delete your account. Your account has been deactivated from the site and will be permanently deleted within 14 days.

If you did not request to permanently delete your account, follow this link to cancel this request:

http://www.facebook.com/account_delete.php

Thanks,

The Facebook Team

As long as you do not log into your Facebook account again with two weeks then your account will be permanently deleted.

Update: Have a read of Gizmodo’s Top Ten Reasons You Should Quit Facebook if you weren’t convinced already.

My Squeezebox is Booming again

After many months of uninterrupted usage, out of the blue my Squeezebox Boom started freezing and resetting. The display would alternate between the regular idle screen and “Connecting” and the device was almost completely unresponsive to controls.

Suspecting a software issue I performed a factory reset and re-entered network settings. Neither had a positive effect. I then tried connecting via Ethernet cable and the box worked fine again.

After some trial and error I discovered that my iPhone was also exhibiting erratic network behaviour on the same WiFi network. Data throughput speeds would vary wildly and performance was inconsistent.

There was no sign of anything wrong with either the WiFi access point or broadband router, so eventually I experimented with some settings and changed the WiFi channel. Hey presto! The Squeezebox immediately sprung back to life and the iPhone has consistent high throughput again. I can’t detect any other WiFi routers in the vicinity on the same channel, so I can only assume that some other wireless device is operating in the 2.4GHz band and was generating noise at that frequency.

If you’re having similar problems with your Squeezebox, try changing your WiFi channel.

The Seagate fiasco

In July 2008 I purchased two Seagate Barracuda ST3500320AS 500GB hard disks. One started reporting a high (and growing) number of unreadable/unrecoverable sectors and so I returned it for a warranty replacement. A couple of weeks later the second drive started doing the same.

A few months after that I started to see forum posts and reports from other Seagate customers reporting defective and dead drives, all of the same type and age. This soon turned into a flood of complaints on the Seagate community support forum and the IT press picked up the story.

» Seagate Forum: Official st31000340as 1TB barracuda epic fail thread

» TheRegister: Seagate customers swamped by Barracuda drive failures

» Engadget: Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 drives said to be failing at an alarming rate

On 18th January 2009 Seagate responded officially and acknowledged that there were firmware issues with some drives.

Smokin' Seagate

A number of Seagate hard drives from the following families may become inaccessible when the host system is powered on:

Barracuda 7200.11
DiamondMax 22
Barracuda ES.2 SATA

Once a drive has become affected the data becomes inaccessible to users but the data is not deleted.  Seagate has isolated this issue to a firmware bug affecting drives from these families manufactured in December 2008.

Please use the following tools and instructions to determine if you have one of the affected products.  If your drive is affected, we recommend that you update the firmware on the disk drive to prevent this condition.

(Note the incorrect “firmware bug affecting drives … manufactured in December 2008”, when they should have said “through to December 2008”).

Seagate released firmware update ‘SD1A’  for the affected drives. This first version of their updater software failed to recognise some of the affected drives and would not update them.

In response to customer complaints Seagate then released an updated-update the next day, with the same SD1A version number.

Note: This file has been updated as of Jan 19, 2008 4:15PM CST. Please re-download this if you have an earlier version.

This update caused the BIOS of some PCs to stop detecting the 500GB capacity drives, rendering them unusable. Well done Seagate!

» Seagate Forum: Does the SD1A break 500GB cudas?

Seagate removed the download link and then finally on 21st January 2009 released an updated-updated-update, yet again with the same version number SD1A.

Could they possibly be any more incompetent in dealing with an already bad situation?

I gather the final version of the SD1A update is safe to use, I haven’t tried it for myself as I opted to purchase new Western Digital Caviar drives and migrate all my data to them instead.

Seagate later decided to close all the forum threads about this issue and “consolidate” them into a new thread:

Hello:

To consolidate the discussion regarding the Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 Firmware issues, please post all related messages in the new thread that we have begun for the purpose of centering all the discussion in one place. Please do not post firmware-related content in another thread. We are closing this thread to redirect.

Thank you for your understanding!

-The Moderator Team

Try clicking on the link and see what you get!

The message you are trying to access has been deleted. Please update your bookmarks.

Great customer support Seagate!

Migrating from RAID1 to RAID5

There comes a time when RAID1 outlives its usefulness and it’s time to ‘upgrade’ to the more expandable RAID5. So what’s the simplest way of migrating existing RAID1 partitions to RAID5? Well it’s actually less painful than you might think.

As ever please backup any critical data to a separate drive before you undertake this. I have performed this on a Fedora 12 system and it completed without a hitch, but YMMV!

I recommend that you boot from a Fedora rescue disc so you’re not doing this on a ‘live’ system, then drop to the command prompt shell and follow these instructions:

Stop the existing RAID array:
# mdadm --stop /dev/md0

Create the new RAID5 array (cat /proc/mdstat to check on rebuild progress):
# mdadm --create /dev/md0 --level=5 -n 2 /dev/sda2 /dev/sdb2

Add an additional disk to the new RAID5 array:
# mdadm --add /dev/md0 /dev/sdc2

Now grow the partition to include the extra disk (again cat /proc/mdstat to check progress). This make take several hours depending on the size of the partition. The backup file can be used to restore data in the event of a system crash and should be stored on a separate device.
# mdadm --grow /dev/md0 --raid-disks=3 --backup-file=/mnt/ext/raid5.bak

Perform an integrity check on the new RAID filesystem:
# e2fsck -f /dev/md0

Then resize the partition to include the extra disk space:
# resize2fs -p /dev/md0

Add the new RAID configuration to mdadm.conf and create a new ramdisk image:
# chroot /mnt/sysimage
# mdadm --examine --scan | grep md0 >>/etc/mdadm.conf
# dracut -f /boot/initramfs-$(uname -r).img $(uname -r)

Splitting a Matroska (MKV) file

Looking for a quick command line solution to extract a specific section of video clip from a mkv (Matroska) file? Well look no further, mkvmerge can do this and more.

Using mkvmerge you can split a mkv file between specific timecodes to extract a timed video clip, for example to extract a 30 minute clip which starts 70 minutes into the source file:

mkvmerge --out outfile.mkv --video-tracks 1 --audio-tracks 2 --no-subtitles --no-attachments infile.mkv --split timecodes:01:10:00,01:40:00 --split-max-files 3

or put more succinctly:

mkvmerge -o outfile.mkv -d 1 -a 2 -S -M infile.mkv --split timecodes:01:10:00,01:40:00 --split-max-files 3

The above command will split the source infile.mkv into three new output files. The command line arguments specify using video track 1, audio track 2, and the removal of any subtitles or attachments.

The first outfile will contain the first 70 minutes, the second will contain the next 30 minutes (the segment you want) and the last outfile will contain the remainder of the file.

Easy when you know how 😀